Mazda CX-5 2014 Suspension & Brake Repair Services

Advice On Your Quote

Suspension and Steering Components

Inner Tie Rod RF: $68.50

• Fair on parts cost. Tie rod ends usually run $40–$70 each for Mazda-level quality. Labor isn't listed here in this line, but usually it’s bundled elsewhere.
• No upsell concerns unless you had no steering looseness or play.

Outer Tie Rod: $53.05

• Fair. Price is in spec for OE (original equipment) or quality aftermarket parts.
• If one tie rod end is bad, usually both are checked, so replacing both on one side isn’t suspicious.
• No upsell vibes here.

Tie Rod End Pass/LT Installation Labor: $62.99

• On the low side, actually. Labor for a tie rod ends job is usually $60–$120 per side, so this is reasonable.

Front Struts NPA (2 units): $659.42

• High for parts only! Quality strut assemblies (Monroe, KYB—even OE Mazda) usually go for $200–$350 per pair. ~$650+ means either genuine Mazda or a big markup.
• Potential upsell: Unless you have obvious bouncing, leaking, or poor ride, struts aren’t always urgent at 195k—but with your mileage, replacement is plausible.

Strut Assembly Labor (2 units): $181.98

• Normal. Most books call for 1.5–2 hours labor, so $150–$250 total is common at dealer rates.

Rear Shocks (2 units): $245.72

• High for parts only. Rear shocks usually run $80–$140 per pair for quality brands. Mazda-branded could explain some bump, but this edges toward dealer markup.
• Replace if leaking or poor ride. At your mileage, not an upsell if there’s real wear.

Shock Labor (2 units): $59.98

• Very fair/low. Rear shocks are pretty quick (30–45 min per side). No complaints.

Front Sway Bar Links (2 units): $90.18

• Fair for parts only if OE. Aftermarket can be even less ($40–$60/set).
• Usually replaced if you have clunking over bumps.

4 Wheel Alignment (Shims Included): $134.99

• Just over average ($80–$120 typical), but dealer inclusion of shims or extra adjustability may justify this at Mazda rates.

Brake Repair – Front

Front Disc Brake Repair Parts: $435.69

• High unless this includes pads, rotors, and hardware. Pads: $50–$100, Hardware: $20, Rotors: $80–$150.
• Double check what’s actually being installed here. "Repair Parts" is vague and may include unnecessary extras.
• Potential upsell if calipers aren’t actually sticking or leaking.

Brake Labor (Front): $210.99

• A bit high, but reasonable for a dealer. Standard is $150–$200. Not worth haggling at Mazda, but a bit cheaper at independents.

Calipers (2 units): $112.35

• Very low/possible error. Calipers are $90–$150 each per side, not per pair. $112.35 for two is suspicious unless these are remanufactured or an itemization error.
• Don’t replace unless seized, leaking, or slide pins are badly rusted.
• Brake shops commonly upsell calipers. Ask why you need them.

Brake Rotors (2 units): $231.98

• High for rotors. Quality rotors are $40–$75 each (so $80–$150/pair). Double the going rate.
• Common upsell. If rotors aren’t deeply scored or warped, resurfacing is often an option (but some dealers replace automatically now).

Brake Repair – Rear

Rear Disc Brake Repair Parts: $468.79

• High. Like the front, unless it’s a full kit with pads, rotors, hardware – make sure you know what’s covered.
• Potential upsell if only pads and rotors are required.

Brake Labor (Rear): $194.99

• Within range, albeit the higher end. Typical is $140–$200 for rear disc brakes.

Calipers (2 units): $136.90

• Low, again – should be at least $100 each unless reman.
• Only replace if truly needed. Ask for a detailed reason.

Brake Rotors (2 units): $157.98

• Slightly high, but not outrageous. Good rotors are ~$40–$75 each.

Possible Upsells / Unnecessary Work

• Calipers (unless demonstrated as seized or leaking).
• Double-check struts and shocks – at 195k some wear is normal, but you shouldn’t need both unless symptoms are present.
• Brake rotors – often replaced automatically, but not 100% required unless below spec or warped.
• Vague “Repair Parts” lines — get the shop to itemize exactly what you’re paying for on pads/hardware.

Recommendations

• Get a second opinion, preferably from a reputable independent shop. Bring the quote and ask them to check what actually needs replacing.
• Ask the Mazda dealer why calipers and rotors are being replaced. If they can show you obvious rust, leaks or warping, that’s fair; if not, these are likely unnecessary upsells.
• Ask to see your old parts after service, so you know what was actually bad.
• If the car is otherwise in good shape and you plan to keep it another few years, fixing brakes and worn suspension is a smart investment. But not every part may need done at once.